Quick Guide to Hair Colour

Temporary Hair Colour

Most temporary hair colours will wash out after the first wash. Temporary colour molecules are too large to enter the hair shaft. They stick to the outside of the hair and can be washed away very easily.

Most temporary colours are applied in mousse form, scrunched into the hair using rubber gloves. There are also colour gels, sprays and rinses. All temporary colours should disappear after the first wash.

Equipment Used
Gown, towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl(optional), tinting brush(optional), comb, brush

Semi Permanent Hair Colour

Semi-permanent hair colour will last longer than a temporary colour and will fade over time with each new wash. Semi-permanent colour molecules are smaller than temporary colour molecules. Being smaller, they can get a little deeper inside the cortex of the hair. This means that the colour will last longer than temporary colour. Each wash will remove some of the colour molecules so the colour will fade slowly.

Semi-permanent colours can last for six to eight washes and can be applied in various ways using techniques such as all over colour, hi/low lights, spot colour and scrunch in colour. Semi-permanent colours are good for clients who do not wish to have permanent colour or who haven't decided on permanent colour yet.

Heat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour will take quicker. The method of application may be affected by hot temperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.
If the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until the last 15-30 minutes.

Equipment Used
Gown/cape, Towel, apron, rubber gloves, tinting bowl, tinting brush, comb, brush, plastic cap, highlighting cap/hook, tinfoil, easy mesh, climazone, cotton wool, sectioning clips, water spray

Porous Hair
If the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until the last 15-30 minutes.

Heat
Heat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour will take quicker. The method of application maybe effected by hot temperatures. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

Permanent Hair Colour

Permanent hair colour is, as it says, PERMANENT. It can be good for correcting unwanted colour (covering white hair), altering the tone and depth of natural colour, for fashion or alternative colour. As it is a permanent hair colour, the colour will not fade, but regrowth will need to be recoloured.

Permanent colour or tints are mixed with the active ingredient hydrogen peroxide to create what are called oxidation dyes.

Permanent colour molecules are much smaller than semi-permanent colour molecules. Being alkaline, permanent colour opens up the cuticle scales allowing the very small colour molecules to enter into the cortex. The small molecules then attach themselves to hydrogen peroxide to create much larger molecules. These larger molecules become trapped inside the hair shaft and cannot escape no matter how many times the hair is washed. This process is called oxidation and is the basis of all permanent colouring or tinting. (see diagram)

Porous Hair
If the hair is porous the processing time may be shortened due to hair damage. i.e. if ends are porous delay colour application until the last 15-30 minutes.

Heat
Heat will affect the processing time. Cold temperatures will slow down the processing time and hot temperatures will speed up processing time. If atmospheric conditions appear to be cold then additional heat may be required. If conditions are hot then colour will take quicker. The method of application maybe effected by hot temperatures too. i.e. If temperature appears to be hot then application may need to start from mid-lengths and ends (as in virgin hair) due to the additional heat given off by the clients scalp.

Hi and Lo Light Techniques

The following are the various techniques that can be used to colour hair and their advantages and disadvantages.

CAPPED

Comb hair into position. Fit cap firmly. Pull correct amount of hair through the cap at a ninety degree angle and apply colour.

Advantages

1.Quicker
2.Ideal for short hair
3.Gets closer to the scalp

Disadvantages

1.Can be painful
2.Can't be precise
3.Only one colour

WEAVED

Section hair accordingly and weave desired thickness with metal tailcomb. Apply colour where desired.

Advantages

1.More than one colour
2.Ideal for long hair
3.Not painful
4.More precise

Disadvantages

1.Difficult on short hair
2.Takes longer
3.Doesn't get close to the roots

FLYING COLOUR

Apply to blow dried hair. Dip comb intocolour and paint for desired effect.

Advantages

1.Ideal for short hair
2.More fashionable

Disadvantages

1.Difficult on long or curly hair

SCRUNCH COLOUR

Apply to blow dried hair. Scrunch colour onto the desired area and rinse.

Advantages

1.Very quick
2.Subtle colour

Disadvantages

1.Only good on naturally curly hair

Colour Wheel and Corrective Hair Colour

The 'colour wheel' and 'star' is made up of three primary colours (red, blue, yellow) and three secondary colours (green, orange, violet).

Each primary and secondary colour has an opposite. It is important to know these opposite colours as it is needed when correcting unwanted hair colour.

For Example: If a client has bright green hair, you would have to neutralise the green with red.

Corrective Colour Wheel

ICC system

The ICC (international colour code) system is a tool that the hairdresser and client need to refer to during colouring consultation. Shade guides, showing samples of coloured nylon hair, are designed around the ICC system and are needed by the hairdresser to get a clear idea of what shade the client requires. The hairdresser can then determine the correct number of shade to mix.

The ICC system is made up of two sets of numbers, depth and tone. Depth (numbered 1-10) is a description of how light or dark a colour is. Tone (1-8) is a description of the character of colour.

For example: If a client was to choose a dark golden blonde colour from the shade guide, the hairdresser should find that the tint number is 6.3

Please note that all manufacturers of tint products may vary slightly in their use of the ICC system.

Next Page: Lightening & Bleaching