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Hairdressing / Shampoo and Conditioner

Hair Shampoo and Conditioner

Choosing the right Shampoo for Hair

Hair Shampoo today contains soapless detergents that do not react with hard water like older soap detergents. Soapless hair shampoo is naturally neutral or slightly Alkaline and is very strong in degreasing the scalp.

Hair Shampoo for Greasy hair

The soapless detergents found in hair shampoo for greasy hair will remove the grease but will not prevent greasy hair. A hair shampoo for greasy hair will contain fewer oily or fatty substances.

Hair Shampoo for dry hair

Dry hair shampoo will contain more oily or fatty substances or less soapless detergents. The oils will leave a residue on the hair and will include oils like coconut, olive and almond oils.

Hair Shampoo for damaged hair

These contain broken down proteins in the form of short chains of amino acids which cling to the hair, filling in damaged areas. Hydrolyzed protein or Keratin is usually taken from certain animal waste products like ground cattle hooves, but it's possible to use Hydrolyzed 'human hair' keratin protein, the benefits of which have not yet been realised by major manufacturing companies of hair shampoo to the general public.

Hair Shampoo for colour treated hair

Hair shampoo for colour treated hair has a low Ph value and is beneficial to reduce oxidation damage and close the cuticle to stop colour molecules escaping.

Anti-Dandruff Hair Shampoo

This type of hair shampoo claims to reduce the multiplication of of the epidermal cells and thus, reduce subsequent scaling. The main ingredient used is Zinc Pyrithione. Another ingredient, Selenium Sulphide, which was used for some time, is now rare because so many people are allergic to the sulphur.

Hair Shampoo for Psoriasis

Coal Tar hair shampoo can be beneficial to reduce scaling, but must be left on the hair for a minimum of five minutes to have maximum effect.

Brightening Hair Shampoo

The ingredients range from Camomile, to lighten blonde hair; henna, to increase the redness of brown hair or semi-permanent colorants in hair shampoo bases.

How to Shampoo Hair

First you must thoroughly wet the hair with cool or warm water. Hot water creates too much steam and will dry out your hair. Add a small amount of shampoo to the palm of your hand (size of a 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Using the balls of your finger tips, gently massage the shampoo into the scalp. The idea is to clean the scalp, not the hair. The scalp produces sebum, a natural oil that stops your hair and scalp from becoming dry and flaky. The reason dirt builds up on your hair is because it becomes trapped in the sebum. By regularly cleaning the scalp, you are removing the old dirty sebum and promoting new clean sebum that will protect your hair and scalp leaving it clean and healthy. If you have a very oily scalp, you should rinse off the first application of shampoo and repeat the process.

TIP: if during the first application of shampoo you notice very little or no lather at all, then the detergent in the shampoo has been weakened by the oil in the scalp and is a good indication that a second application of shampoo is required.

Choosing the right Conditioner for Hair

Oil conditioners

  • Olive oil
  • Almond oil
  • Coconut oil

These oils can be applied to dry hair and processed with heat, they will make the hair feel soft, supple and shiny.

Acid rinses

Weak acids (P.H. 4 - 5) such as lemon juice and vinegar can be poured through the hair after shampooing and left on. They will make the hair shiny by closing the cuticle scales.

1 tablespoon of lemon juice in 1 pint of warm water.

Chemicals such as neutralisers, bleaches, permanent tints are alkaline (opening the cuticle scales) and work by adding oxygen to the hair and return the hair to its natural acid state. We need to use ascorbic acid. This anti - oxidant (ie - it removes oxygen) is often added to acid balance conditioners because of its anti - oxidant properties and because its good at closing the cuticle scales.

Leave in conditioners

These contain moisturising and protective ingredients and are sprayed onto wet hair. They are ideal for greasy, fine or tight curly Afro hair and are very useful for disentangling childrens hair and prevent the hair from drying out too much.

Conditioning creams

Ordinary conditioning creams are emulsions which work in a similar way to the hairs natural grease. They coat the hair in a thin film filling in some of the gaps in the broken scales so the hair becomes more shiny and manageable. The better ones are acid.

Deep Acting conditioners

These are sometimes used when reconditioning the hair, especially as part of a 4 - 6 week series of weekly treatments for hair in very poor condition.


Hair that is in a very weakened and over processed state, (over permed, bleached) such as in Trichorrhexis nodosa will benefit from the application of a restructurite and should be applied to shampooed, well dried hair and left on.

High frequency

This treatment used for hairdressing and beauty purposes. A metal electrode and glass vacuum electrode are used, they consist of :

1 The metal electrode or saturator.
2 The glass comb or the rake electrode.
3 The glass bulb or surface electrode.
4 The cylinder is usually made from vulcanite and is called the holder.

It has been found that the H - F stimulates :

1 Nerve endings.
2 Circulation via the superficial, arterial capillaries.
3 Sweat glands.
4 Sebaceous glands.

H - F treatment

The treatment consists of applying a H - F alternating electric current to the scalp by means of a suitable electrode. This gives a tingling sensation to the scalp and a feeling of warmth.

How to Condition Hair

Rinse off any shampoo and towel dry the hair. This is so any water will not dilute the conditioner too much. Add a small amount of conditioner to the palm of your hand (size of a 10 pence coin) and rub your hands together. Add the conditioner to the hair starting from the middle of the hair shaft, working your way towards the ends of the hair. The idea is to coat your hair in a protective layer of conditioner to smooth the cuticle scales. leave the conditioner on the hair for a few minutes to allow it to work on the cuticle scales. After a few minutes it is time to rinse out the conditioner. Make sure it is rinsed thoroughly with warm or cold water.

Shampoo and Conditioning Treatments for hair

A scalp whith flaking skin (dandruff)
To completely remove it, use a shampoo whith selenium sulphide. But beware, unless you keep using it, the dandruff will return. Using a shampoo with natural oils like Tea Tree is a better long term solution.

Chemicaly treated hair (i.e.permed etc.)
Use a clear liquid soapless shampoo P.H.7 before treatment. Use a soapless shampoo with organic acids (lemon juice, vinegar), ascobic acid, or any anti-oxident treatment, all with a P.H.4.0 to 5.6 after processing.

Damaged hair
Use a soapless shampoo whith natural or synthetic, fatt or wax. cationic detergents, deep acting conditioners, restructurants and also high frequency treatment may be benificial. A shampoo whith keretin or other protiens (animal or vegetable) will help to re-build the damaged cuticle.

Dry hair
Use any oil or wax based shampoo's, leave in conditioners and hot oil tretments containing almond, coconut or sunflower oils, may help.

Oily or greasy hair
Soapless shampoo's whith natural acids i.e. lemon or vinegar. Beer, egg and dry shampoo's will combat oily hair.

Herbs and their affects on hair

Burdock root: Positive on roots of hair

Rosemary: Improves circulation, Good for grease

Nettle: Skin problems, Controls dandruff

Sunflower oil: Restricturant, Fatty acids

Camomile: Conditioning, Increased shine, Good for damaged hair

Linden blossom: Ideal for fine hair, Smoothes the hair

Yarrow: Volume to fine hair, Etheric oil

Calendula: Moisturising for long hair, Regulating, Contains Carotenoids (balance of skin and hair)

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